Dhiga, Oo qiimihiisu aad u badan u xanuunsataan, in la ogaado si yar ... Sida ayaa sheegay in Zakada-wiil, isagoo gaaray dhamaadka alifbeetada ... "The Pickwick Waraaqaha" by Charles

Waan ognahay waxa loogu baahan yahay daryeel buuxa - shaambo iyo bukaa. Maanta waxaan la hadli doonaa oo kaliya ee shaambo. Wada hadalka waa mid dheer oo aan wax badan xitaa caajiso, laakiin labo ka mid ah articles ka dib waxaad awoodi doontaa inaad si ay u fahmaan Halabuurka shaambo ah, halkii ay ka reading dhigyo advertising uu noqon doono.

Taariiqda

Waqtiyadii hore si aad u maydho timaha guud ahaan iyo gaar ahaan loo isticmaalo yellow ukunta iyo caanaha dhanaan qasan dhoobada. Laakiin noocooda ah shaambo ugu caansan ahaa laga yaabaa in ash - hadhaagii waxyaabaha sari waxaa ku qasmay biyo si aad u hesho deggan mass afkuu aadka xumadoodu. Qarnigii bartamihii 19-saarka warshadaha ee saabuunta adag, oo awood u kala diridda dufanka xayawaanka iyo asal ahaan cuntada. Tani saabuun caanka saxan, ayaa si guul leh loo isticmaalo ma aha oo kaliya by ayeeyooyin our, laakiin sidoo kale qaar ka mid ah saffarro uu. Anigu waxaan si xoog leh ka soo horjeeda - maxaa yeelay, saabuun ku sarkhaansan yihiin biyo la xirrira xeryahooda beelaya (la cusbada engegnaantiinna), kuwaas oo lagu shubo on timaha, la xirrira lakabka cad iyo urka ah daloolada of basada (taas oo inta badan sababa alopecia Dhawa karo).

In tobanka sano ee hore ee qarnigii 20-aad, in shirkadda Schwarzkopf mahad u muuqday lacagta gaar ah ugu horeysay ee timaha lagu dhaqo. Shaambo sida caadiga ah waxaa noo dhan shaybaarka Schwarzkopf la mid ah 1933 iyo ayaa u tari jirtay riyo oo ka mid ah haweenka ka dibna moodada adduunka oo dhan. Waxaa jira xitaa halyeey sida uu sheegay oo waxaa lagu murmi karaa in mid ka mid ah sababaha for heshiis ma weeraraan Germany iyo Midowga Soofiyeeti ahaa doonayaan, si aad u hesho our warshadaha ka dibna la isku qurxiyo (kuwaas Warshadda Freedom, mid ka mid ah in weli ka jiraa Moscow), formula oo ka mid ah shaamboo mucjiso Jarmal. Anigu garan maayo sida runta ah kanu waa, laakiin ay dhacdo in kasta oo, shaambo horeysay Russia ayaa u muuqday oo kaliya in ay 60s hore ee qarnigii 20-aad. Waxay ka koobnayd oo kuwii ku dhisayna ma aha oo kaliya caadiga detergency (alkyl), laakiin emollient glycerin. Si kastaba ha ahaatee, inkastoo this, shaamboo ahaayeen "adag" (pH = 7-8), waxaan iyaga is barbardhigi kartaa in laga reebo, iyadoo casriga shaambo nadiifinta qoto dheer. In 70 sano ee qarnigii 20aad shirkadda "Procter & Gamble" markii ugu horeysay lagu soo bandhigay galay oo sideeda ee shaamboo daryeelka wakiilada (qaybaha cationic) in ay yihiin ku daray in ay shaambooyada iyo xataa debecsanaanta qaarkood awooda conditioning timaha.

shaambooyada casri ah

Si aad u taariikhda, shaambo ka nadaafadda caadiga ah waxa uu noqday ku dhawaad "dhaqan", sida ay daryeel u tur aan cuncun maqaarka, joogitaanka guryaha daryeelka kala duwan ee timaha, inta badan ay weheliso saamaynta ku daweynta iyo profilatikada ee maqaarka, iyo mararka qaar xitaa u dhaqmo sida nooc ka mid ah udugga, si urta wacan mahad. Taasi waa sababta, shaambo waa mid ka mid ah kuwa ugu badan ee la isticmaalo alaabta la isku qurxiyo oo buuxisa baahida ugu sareeya, kuwaas oo in this article, waxaan ka fiirsan doonaa oo kaliya saabuun iyo guryaha maqaarka ee ka doodaan "muuqaalka alaabta dibadda," uu "image" ee advertising ah suuqa ii arrin xiiso leh.

In buug-Qurxin casri ah u sheegay in tayada shaambo casriga hantidaan waa in ay:

- saamayn nadiifinta wanaagsan (dabcan, taasi waa ay hawsha ugu weyn); siinta xumbo hodan biyo qalbi engegnaantiinna aawadeed kasta (oo waa mid aad u muhiim ah in dalkeena badan);

- si fiican u qaybiyey timaha (tani waa muhiim ka barta of view of faa'iidada, maxaa yeelay, dayrka weli waa a "dhibaato");

- si fudud dhaqday off (tani sidoo kale waa calaamad muujinaysa of "hufnaan", sida tirada ugu badan ee dadka ayaa hore counters biyaha on, ka sokow of jajabi oo shaambo roobab waa qof uma badna in lagu qurxiyey doono);

- ma cuncun maqaarka madaxa (aan dhaxlayn cajiib dhabta ah gudahood allergenicity sii kordhaya ee nin casriga ah);

- si ay u bixiyaan saamayn conditioning ah, arrintaasna waa u fududahay in ay shanlee (si fiican, anigu taas waan ku dooday, maxaa yeelay, in my opinion, waa shuqulkii balms);

- siin timaha muuqaalka dhaldhalaalaan oo caafimaad (laakiin dabcan, gaar ahaan haddii macaamiisha ah waxaa loogu tala galay fikradda ah sida "khayroon daahirnimo");

- leeyihiin baakada ku haboon iyo muuqaalka soo jiidasho leh.

Recently shaambo bilaabay inuu ku dar qayb ka midab ganaax - microspheres leh saamayn daro abuuraya naqas ama confetti. Waxa intaa dheer in saameyn muuqaal ah oo xiiso leh, oo ay u hubiyaan ammaanka supplements cuntada. Si kastaba ha ahaatee, iyadoo aan loo eegayn sida soo jiidasho ahaa shaambo ah muuqaalka, xaqiiqada iyo soo jiidashada macaamiisha guryaha ay la qiimeyn karaa oo keliya isticmaalka ka dib.

Doorka biyo shaambo ah

Inta ay biyo shaambo gaadhi karaa 80%, biyaha waa in ay ahaataa ugu horrayn microbiologically saafi ah (in shaambo ma noqon bakteeriyada "Abdilaahi"). Waxaa lagama maarmaan ah in ay jireen ma cusbada engegnaantiinna (bir ah, calcium, magnesium), kuwaas oo naaqusa ka xumbaynaya iyo marar aad u badan ku dhacaa, sida aan soo dadajin wacan. Si aad uga takhalusi lahaayeen badan oo kuwan oo cusbada lagu daray ka chelates ee loo yaqaan (sida caadiga ah waa Trilon B).

Maanta waa moodada inay sheegaan in biyaha ee shaamboo bedelay infusions ama decoctions dhigtee. Waan hubaa in ay dhab ahaantii waa suurto gal tan iyo doodii ka dhirta waa jawi wanaagsan ma aha oo kaliya lagu daaweyn jiray noocyo kala duwan oo dermatitis, laakiin sidoo kale koritaanka jiray cayn kasta oo ah noolaha, oo ka mid ah ma jiro ah "xaq" ma ihi. Oo weliba ... Waxaan weli rumaysan karo oo kaliya waxa ay yidhaahdaan commercials.  

walax nadiifinta

In kasta oo ay sida content a biyaha% weyn weli waxaa aasaas u ah shaambo kasta waa walax saabuunta ah. Maxaa yeelay, hawsha ugu muhiimsan ee shaambo si loo saaro wasakh, in uu yahay - si aad u maydho! Walxaha saabuunta ku salaysan yihiin surfactants ee shaamboo - surfactants.

guryaha Surfactant: 1. yareeyo xiisadda dusha u dhexeeya Qurub biyaha iyo baruurtii, fududeynta saarista oo ka mid ah qurubyada iyo wasakh, 2. xumbo la xirrira (oo horay u ahaa guud ahaan la rumaysan yahay - in ka badan xumbada, si fiican u daahirintiisa Hadda bayaankan on arrin run ah.); 3. In la sameeyo ganaax ah oo qayb ka mid ah wasakh in xumbo iyo looga hortago in dib-u-saldhigan ee uus on timaha (tani waa muhiim, haddii kale halkii lagu dhaqo waxaan leenahay lahaa jirdil shaqada culus); 4. ah maaddooyinka haray waxaa xasilin shaambo ama u ilaaliyaan in Xaaladda a kala diri, 5. kordhin nafwaayay ee shaamboo, 6. siin debecsanaanta timaha.

Bixi detergency inta badan surfactants anionic, taagoo of kuwaas oo ka kooban liposoluble (hydrophobic) qayb iyo L. biyo (hydrophilic) qayb ka mid ah. In xal aqueous, taagoo ee cawisa si ay u sameeyaan udhigo si xun u eedeeyay. qaybta xaydha-L ee Britain ayaa ku xidhana iyo jubbado Qurub of wasakh iyo dheecaan qanjidhada Qanjirrada. biyo qaybta u milma ee Britain ka soo timaha, taas oo xanbaarsan lacag xun (sida loo yaqaan kharash isku mid kasta oo kale oo kada ah) iska janjeedha, ku dheehan yahay ee qayb ka ah wasakh, ku xiran surfactants, timaha diiday, ka dibna kala diri ee biyaha iyo laga saaro la. qaybaha waxaa kale oo aan qabsiyada gudbiyo sida saabuunta dharka iyo surfactants. saabuun Saponifier waa asal ahaan dabiiciga ah, surfactants - products dardaro. Inta badan loo isticmaalaa dhowr saabuun in shaambo ah: sulfate sodium laureth (inta badan la isticmaalo), cusbada ee sulfates ether alkyl (magnesium sodium lauryl, ammonium ka yar), magnesium laureth sulfate (jilicsanaayeen, laakiin qaali) saktisulfosuktsinaty (surfactants jilicsan ku salaysan succinic acid) peptides acyl (saarka uumiga ee hydrolyzate protein ah iyo saliidda qumbaha ah).

Waxaa sidoo kale aad loo surfactants cationic. Waxay leeyihiin saamayn saabuunta si caddaalad ah oo khafiif ah, laakiin waxay sidoo kale waa "jiidan" iyo timaha si xun u eedeeyay oo wuxuu oofin u qardarin of supplements cuntada on timaha: polymers cationic, hydrolysates protein quaternized, polysaccharides dhirta.

surfactants Amphoteric - isku dhafan oo surfactants anionic kordhin harmlessness ee daawooyinka shaambo, oo isku dhafan oo cationic kor loogu qaado saamaynta wanaagsan ee silicones oo lagu daro ee maqaarka on timaha iyo maqaarka: alkilamidopropil betaines cocoamphoacetate.

Saraaxad, in ay ka hadlaan surfactant waxay noqon kartaa waqti aad u dheer (dhab ahaantii waxaa jira wax dheeraad ah oo aan Madbacada qaranka, surfactants kriptoaninovye iyo xataa SOPA, kaas oo gacan ka abuuraya ah qaaciidooyinka ugu dheeli tiran), laakiin waxaan aaminsanahay in tani lagu dhammeystiri karo, sida ka dibna uu bilaabo kiimikada arrin adag noo subtleties.

daro bilicsanaanta

Opacifiers: loogu talagalay in hoosaasin heterogeneity ee alaabta ama ma color qurux badan, kuwaas oo ficil ahaan u ogolaanaya wax badalina uma dejinta, si loo horumariyo guryaha macaamiisha ay. Ka dib markii opacifiers Intaa waxaa dheer, shaambo sii sida lotion ah ama jelly, ka badan saabuunta caadiga ah (nooc qoyska). opacifiers KIIMIKADA waa dispersions polymer aqueous.

Formaldehyde: bandhigay in hoosaasin midabo la rabin. Waa in ay noqon ammaan u ah macaamiisha, photostable hana cawisa dhammaan noocyada kala duwan ee saamaynta (kululaynta, qaboojinta, iwm). Inta badan wadamada nidaaminaya isticmaalka formaldehyde. Guud ahaan waxaa jira dhowr nidaam sharciyeed - Mareykanka, Yurub iyo Japan. saarayaasha Ruush hoggaansamaan formaldehyde xeerka Yurub. Iyo guud ahaan - theme ah sooo ma fudud iyo halkii lagu caajiso, this - wax walba.

Udgoonka: sokow xaqiiqda ah in waxa la "qurxiyey" sheyga, taas oo soo jiidasho leh, waayo, wax iibsadaa, cadarka, oo ay ku jiraan urta Saamaha ceeriin. Sidaas - waxaad u malaynaysaa ku saabsan. Haddii urka xoog badan halkaas, macnaheedu ma aha waa in alaabta ceeriin ma yihiin qaar ay tayadoodu aad u sarreeya ... Cadar waa in la jaan buuxiyo kale shaambo iyo ma inay burburto muddo (waxaa la rumeysan yahay in ay tahay in la sii hayo ugu yaraan 3 bilood). Scheme shaambo ur siiyo waa mid aad u adag iyo nasiib darro, wada jir ah ula sheyga iyo colorants noqon kartaa sabab weyn oo dareen diidmo oo xasaasiyadeed in shaambo ah. Waxaa jira amarka caadi ah Yurub, kaas oo qeexaya 26 xasaasiyadda waaweyn, kuwaas oo ka mid noqon kara cadarka, laakiin sababo ammaan dartood loo baahan yahay waa in si ay u muujiyaan on calaamad u, gaar ahaan haddii ay tirada badan yahay xadka.

daro functional

Sheyga: waa maadooyin uu ku daray in ay isku qurxiyo si ay u joojiyaan koritaanka sheyga ama dil, tan iyo markii la isku qurxiyo koobnaan jawi aad u wanaagsan, waayo koritaanka iyo taranka ee sheyga. Tani waa mid aad u khatar ah, sababta oo ah sheyga aan la xaqiro oo kaliya tayada sheyga, laakiin sidoo kale soo saaro sunta (sunta ah ee asal ahaan dabiiciga ah), taas oo xataa ka cadhaysiinina karaan horumarinta hawomareenka iyo xasaasiyad. Sidaas daraaddeed, ka nadiifiyo microbiological inta badan ku xirnaan ma aha oo kaliya on guryaha macaamiisha ee alaabta ah, laakiin sidoo kale ay ku oolnimada iyo, xitaa waxaan dhihi lahaa - ammaanka. Selection of preservative si gaar ah u sameeyey shay kasta. Waa hawl adag, tan iyo markii ay lagama maarmaan tahay inay tixgeliyaan: oggolyahay ka dhanka ah qaybaha kala duwan ee sheyga, waafaqid preservative oo dhan maaddooyinka shaambo, sumoobo hooseeyo; xasiloonida heerkulka, xasilloonida kala duwan pH ballaaran.

sheyga aasaasiga ah loo isticmaalo: taagayo acid Benzosyrene, parabens kala duwan, metilhloroizotiazolinon iyo methylisothiazolinone, HOL imidazolidinyl, tones propylene, methylparaben, propylparaben, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben iyo wixii la mid.

Thickeners (nidaamiyo nafwaayay) waxaa lagu daraa shaamboo in la siiyo joogta ah la doonayo. polymers habeysan thickeners ku haboon yihiin inta badan la isticmaalo waa polyvinylpyrrolidone iyo copolymers of acrylates. Sidoo kale thickeners oofin karin doorka esters glyceryl ee acids dufanka leh iyo polysaccharides asal ahaan dhirta.

wakiilada Solubilizing: wakiilada gaarka ah in la kordhiyo milmi ee maaddooyinka liidata L.. waxyaabaha ethoxylated kala duwan yihiin inta badan la isticmaalo. Solubilizers inta badan loo isticmaalaa in lagu solubilize cadar. supplements Qaar ka mid ah ka hor inta hordhaca galay shaambo ayaa sidoo kale kala diri ee solubilizers ah (tus, saliid jojoba, saliid jeermiga sarreen, vitamins xaydha-L).

nidaamiyo PH, iyo hagaajinta, si la yaqaan noo index hydrogen, ku dar acids jilicsan (qaarna, jėrto, phosphoric) ama alkali (hydroxide sodium, mancaha ama triethanolamine). pH ee shaambo waa cajiib ah oo muhiim ah, sababtoo ah waa in sida si loo hubiyo waxtarka dhan qaybaha ka mid ah in ay ka kooban. Guud ahaan, waxaa la rumeysan yahay in ay tahay pH ay go'aamiso heerka uu maqaarka cuncun marka la isticmaalayo shaambo. Laakiin haragga rumaysan labo geesood ah waa arrin lagu muransan yahay, sida cilmi badan xoogga saaraan in maqaarku uu leeyahay a guryaha kayd wanaagsan (awood u leeyahay inuu si cadaalad ah ay adag tahay in la xakameeyo degidda qiimaha pH, ie si loo xasiliyo pH ah). Waxa kaliya ee keeni kara in ay daciifaan ka mid ah nidaamka naqdida ah - shaambo xun ka timaha iyo maqaarka iska maydhay, laakiin markaas kicinta waxay yeelan doonaan in ay ka shaqeeyaan ma aha oo kaliya oo aan wax badan xakameeya pH ah.

daro conditioning

Loogu tala galay: in laga furo koranto ma guurto ah (hal maalin aan la kulmay muddo - "Timaha razletaemosti yareynta"); yeeesha meelaha dhaawacmay cuticle ah (yeeesha porosity); fududeynta fududaato in timaha la shanleeyo (labada qoyan iyo qalalan); siinta iftiimo timaha iyo silkiness; siinta ilaalin kaamerada, fuuq iyo nafaqada ee timaha, kordhiyaan in mugga timaha.

hab ay of tallaabo ee qaboojiyaha: saamayn dhab ahaan ku danbayso banal Magnet "+" taagoo eedeeyay conditioners in "-" dusha timaha lagu eedeeyay. Si kastaba ha ahaatee, marka lagu daro magnet ka, haddii ay taasi ku, waxaa jira qaboojiye dheeraad ah iyo Britain Isaaray la keratin ee timaha. hantida Tan waxaa lagu magacaabaa - substantivity, si ay hawo iyada ma aha oo kaliya go'an on dusha sare ee timaha mahad, laakiin sidoo kale hayn wakiilka lacagta. Waxaa la rumeysan yahay in qaybaha ay waxyeello ka mid ah timaha leeyihiin lacag negative waaweyn iyo, Sidaa darteed, waxay ka badan "+" eedeeyay (cationic) ee qayb ka ah diiwaan, in uu yahay - saamaynta isku qurxiyo waa wanaajiyey. Dhab ahaantii, tani waa waxa boos brand badan sida a "daryeelka smart '.

Ka mid ah faa'iidooyinka badan oo hagaajiye hawada, waxa ay muujineysaa awood u leh inay ku siin timahaaga gloss ah u qurux badan iyo sare. Taana waxaa lagu gaarayaa in qaboojiyaha "xanjo ilaa" cuticle timaha, samaynta dusha more siman (timaha tiradaasi kala duwan milicsiga badan), oon u qaadidda, xoojinta midabka iyo gloss dabiiciga ah.

Waxaa jira, si kastaba ha ahaatee, ma aha dhibaatooyinka ugu wacan oo ka mid ah conditioners cationic mucjisada ah. Inta badan shaamboo (gaar ahaan aad u burburay iyo timaha bleached) waa arrin culus timaha, ay ka saareen mugga badan. On this si ay u abuuraan shaambo ah, technology loo baahan yahay in ay u hoggaansamaan dheeli saxda ah ee u dhexeeya nadiifinta iyo qaboojiyaha ah maaddooyinka. Tani waa muhiim sababtoo ah kororka xad-dhaafka ah ee lagu daro qaboojiyaha aad u daciifiyaa shaambo rinsability iyo safeeyey. Aad muhiim u tahay doorashada hagaajiye hawada. Tusaale ahaan, qaboojiyaha ugu awoodda badan oo wax ku ool ah waa saliid silicone, taas oo ah mid aad u badan ururayaa on timaha (xasuusta of this cajiib ah tenacious in maskaxda iyo Xusuus of macaamiisheena). Sidaa darteed, xirfadlayaasha casriga ah door bidaan in ay isticmaalaan iftiinka (kacsan) silicones.

Waxaa muhiim ah in la xasuusto in wax dhib ah maleh sida xoog iyo noolaynayo ahaa shaambo lahayn, qaboojiyaha joogitaanka daro kama saarayso baahida loo qabo in la isticmaalo beeyo ah. Tani waa gaar ahaan muhiim u burburay, timaha bleached iyo kuweyga, iyo sidoo kale timaha hadhka darafyadiisa dheer. Xusuusnow in meelaha ay waxyeello ku jira dusha badan oo ay la socoto lacag xun, iyo tallaabada of qayb cationic fudud ma aha in ku filan.

Silicones: siiyo debecsanaanta timaha, iftiin iyo silkiness, yareeyo lacag ma guurto ah, fududeeyo shanleeyo timaha qoyan iyo qalalan, laga fogaado iyaga dhaawac (oo lagu daray ay yareeyaan dhagdhaga ee lacag dhagaaxda). Silicones awood u leeyihiin in ay u ogolow cuticle ah by fulinta shaqo dhimista. Intaa waxaa dheer, waxay abuuri filim on dusha sare ee timaha, ka gardarada ah ee deegaanka ilaalinta timaha oo ah guryaha ilaalinta kaamerada.

Noocyada silicones iyo raadka ay ku leeyihiin xaaladda timaha: 1. dimethicone - saliidaha silicone. Leedahay tallaabo ah loogu dhawaaqo noolaynayo, waxay abuurtaa luster la yaab leh oo xasilloon, shanleeyo iyo Attam oo ka fudud si ay u sameeyaan Heat film ilaaliya. hoos u miisaami kara timahaaga. 2. polioldimetikony (copolymers) - biyo silicones L. Leeyihiin hantida si tartiib ah in la qaybiyo sheyga iyada oo timaha si loo hagaajiyo Attam. 3. silicones aminofunctional (amodimethicone) - hantiyi guryaha conditioning iyo dib u warshadaynta, si fiican u hayn midabka timaha cas. 4. Encapsulation of silicones - waxay bixiyaan conditioning dheeraad ah iyo hagaajinaysaa Attam timaha, 5. laurate dimethicone succinoglycan - silicone aqueous emmulsiya vysokomolekulchrnogo - haysto regenerative iyo regenerative saamayn, siinaysaa silky, timo xabagta kala jabeen dhamaado.

Halkan ayay ah - daryeelka ABC.